Ginestreto 10

Villa Cetinale (immediately adjacent) is the reason this location is special. This 17th-century Baroque villa was built 1676-1680 by Cardinal Flavio Chigi (nephew of Pope Alexander VII) to a design by Carlo Fontana, Bernini's famous pupil. The formal Italian gardens follow a dramatic single axis: starting at a monumental statue of Hercules by Giuseppe Mazzuoli at the lower terminus, extending across the villa's immediate surroundings (lemon garden with topiary, statues, climbing roses, wisteria-covered walls), and terminating at the Romitorio hermitage high on the hill above, reached by the santa scala (holy stair) of almost 300 steps.

The Thebaid sacred wood (named after the Egyptian desert where early Christian hermits lived) creates a contemplative pilgrimage route with seven chapels dedicated to the sorrows of the Virgin, statues of saints and hermits by Bartolomeo Mazzuoli, and winding paths through ancient oaks. Cardinal Flavio Chigi held the Palio horse race here seven times between 1679-1692, possibly due to rioting in Siena.

The villa fell into ruin and was acquired by Lord Antony Lambton (6th Earl of Durham) in 1977-78, lacking electricity, water, and a functional roof. He and his partner Claire Ward spent 30 years meticulously restoring it. The gardens were featured in Edith Wharton's 1904 "Italian Villas and Their Gardens" (one of only 70 gardens she included), and again featured on the cover of Vivian Russell's 1997 "Edith Wharton's Italian Gardens." Garden designer Penelope Hobhouse called Cetinale "the epitome of garden design" and the flower garden "one of the most beautiful in Italy."

During Lambton's tenure, Villa Cetinale became known for hosting fashionable figures including Princess Margaret, Prince Charles, Mick Jagger, Rupert Everett, Tony Blair, and Kate Moss. The villa appeared in the season three finale of the TV series Succession. Garden tours are sometimes available by arrangement (check current status as restoration work may be ongoing).

Ancaiano village (600 meters) was the birthplace of Baldassarre Peruzzi (1481-1536), the towering Renaissance architect and painter who designed Villa Farnesina in Rome and worked on St. Peter's. Carlo Fontana's design for Villa Cetinale paid tribute to Peruzzi's work - the similarity to Villa Farnesina is deliberate. The poetic symmetry of Cetinale sitting 600m from Peruzzi's birthplace would not have been lost on Fontana.

Montagnola Senese (surrounding hills) is a largely forested area of hills west of Siena, extending across the districts of Siena, Monteriggioni, Sovicille, and Casole d'Elsa. Covered mainly in mixed oak and ilex forests, the area has conserved its native beauty and wild character. Home to wild boar, deer, foxes, badgers, hares, porcupines, hedgehogs, squirrels, and a wide range of migratory birds. Historic walking trails wind through the woods, passing abandoned medieval villages, caves, small hamlets, and castles. The area was historically inhabited by bandits (long since moved on). Less developed and touristy than many Tuscan areas - this is genuinely wild countryside.

Walking trails from Ginestreto include routes to Villa Cetinale's Scala Santa and Romitorio, loops through the surrounding oak forests, paths to nearby villages like Sovicille and Pievescola. The Via Francigena pilgrimage route passes through the area. Some trails can be muddy after rain, most are well-maintained dirt roads through pine, oak forests, olive groves, and vineyards.

Close by there are the hidden delights of Torri, with its romanesque cloister, the village of Casole and the roofless abbey of San Galgano.

Siena (12km, 15-20 minutes) needs no introduction. The Campo, the Duomo, the Palio in July and August, the medieval streets radiating from the shell-shaped piazza. Park outside the walls (Fortezza Medicea car park, then walk or take bus into center). Book Duomo tickets ahead in peak season. The Libreria Piccolomini inside the Duomo has frescoes by Pinturicchio. The Torre del Mangia gives 360-degree views if you climb the 400 steps.

Monteriggioni (nearby) is a perfectly preserved medieval hilltop village with intact crown of city walls and 14 watchtowers (originally 15, one destroyed). Built by the Republic of Siena in 1213-1219 as a defensive outpost against Florence. Dante mentioned it in the Inferno (Canto XXXI). The walls are walkable. Small central piazza, few shops and restaurants, church of Santa Maria Assunta. Popular with tourists but worth seeing for the intact medieval fortifications. Used as a location in Assassin's Creed II video game.

Sovicille (nearby) is a larger village, market town character, services and shops, church of San Bartolomeo, less touristy than Monteriggioni.

San Gimignano (30-35km, 40 minutes) - the "medieval Manhattan" with 14 remaining towers (from original 72). UNESCO World Heritage Site. Touristy but worth visiting, especially early morning or late afternoon when day-trippers leave. Vernaccia di San Gimignano white wine worth tasting. Park outside walls, walk into historic center. Piazza della Cisterna and Piazza del Duomo are the main squares. Torre Grossa (tallest surviving tower) can be climbed for views.

Val d'Orcia (50-60km south) - the classic Tuscan landscape of rolling hills, cypress-lined roads, medieval hilltop towns. Pienza (Pope Pius II's ideal Renaissance town), Montalcino (Brunello wine), San Quirico d'Orcia, Bagno Vignoni (thermal springs in the piazza). UNESCO World Heritage Site. Allow full day for proper exploration.

Florence (60km, 1 hour) - drive to outskirts and park at a park-and-ride (Villa Costanza or similar), then tram/bus into center. Or train from Siena (1 hour 30 minutes). The Uffizi, Accademia (David - book months ahead), Duomo, San Lorenzo markets, Ponte Vecchio, endless churches with Renaissance art.