Close to Florence, on the slopes of the Apennine hills, a skilled architect has transformed a group of ancient farm buildings into beautiful and elegant dwellings. Capriata is an independent cottage on this fabulously restored Florentine estate, and overlooks the main square and the pool, a large 10 x 20 metre expanse reminiscent of the pools in Roman villas. Impeccably detailed by the architect owner, this is a house for true relaxation and being looked after.
The walk into the village is just over 1.5km and takes between 20 and 30 minutes. The quieter path is mostly traffic free and goes via a narrow valley, crossing a historic bridge called "Hannibal's Bridge" - the famous Carthaginian general and his army came through this area two thousand years ago, though I doubt he took his elephants over this small bridge.
Capriata is listed under the following categories:
With a stone wall, small wood truss and a wrought-iron gate fronted by a small private garden, Capriata is one of the houses that faces the village square. In Tuscan fashion Capriata’s two floors are connected by both exterior and interior stairways and once through the iron gate to the left of the estate library entrance is either up the stone stairwell to the balcony terrace or through a door into the ground floor entry hall. From the entryway two steps lead down to a corridor off of which there is a laundry room and three bedrooms, two doubles and a twin, all facing and having independent access to the front square and each with a bathroom. Of these bathrooms, two are ensuite and one has both bathtub and separate shower.
The stairway in the entry hall leads up to a study with armchairs awaiting a reader with an inspiring guidebook. Open doorways to a larger living room with comfortable sofa and armchairs in front of an open fireplace and French doors that access a furnished balcony with sweeping views of the hamlet square as well as the rising estate woodlands. Sliding doors lead from the living room to a large eat-in kitchen with a double fireplace and an expandable dining table that welcomes extra guests for dinner.
There is an honesty bar in the building by the pool, with fridges and drinks
Borgo Rinnovato has been recently restored to a high standard
These wooden beamed ceilings are typical of Tuscan houses
The detailing and furnishings are well thought through
French doors open out onto the hamlet's gardens and grounds
The large wide fireplaces are reminiscent of Tuscan working kitchens
Plenty of spots to relax with a good book
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There are paths through the olive groves and leading further up into the Tuscan hills from here
The restaurant must be booked and has a minimum number, but is a beautiful spot for a meal
A masseuse can be booked for massages on the estate
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There is a final stretch of 400 metres of gravel road that leads to a car park among the olive trees.
The walk in from the Borgo can be made in three ways. The favoured way is to walk down the 400m track, turn left on a small local road and then go back onto a track that leads down to a tiny old bridge, known as Hannibal's bridge, and then walk up the track into the village. You can also stay on the road which involves less climbing but can be less pleasant if there's traffic. Finally there's a third pathway, called the "sentiero della memoria" which is beautiful but often overgrown. The distance to the nearest restaurant is around 1.8km - just over a mile.
Borgo Rinnovato is perfectly located to discover why Tuscany has been and remains a destination of choice. Being in the Valdarno, the wide valley through which the Arno River meanders, Florence, the famed city that straddles it immediately comes to mind. Leaving your car at the Figline or San Giovanni Valdarno free station lots, hourly direct trains will easily bring you to the heart of this Renaissance treasure chest where world-famous museums, frescoed churches, graceful bridges and historic piazzas are all accessible on foot, with sustaining gelato stops along the way of course.
The road south arrives at another major Tuscan city, Arezzo. Believed to have been one of the 12 most important Etruscan cities and always a center of commerce, still today Arezzo’s artisans and merchants enliven its medieval center, especially on the first Sunday of the month and the previous Saturday when its Antiquarian Fairs fill the streets with ‘treasures’. June and September visitors delight in Piazza Grande’s costumed Saracen Joust, while visitors the year round seek out the splendid frescoes of Piero della Francesca.
If bustling historic cities and a church too many begin to fatigue, there are other options. Designer outlets are half an hour away for those whose preferences lean to Italian styling and a good bargain. And in less than an hour winding cypress-lined roads through the Chianti region lead to small towns such as Gaiole, Greve or Radda in Chianti, known world-wide for what fills a wine glass and the delicious food that accompanies it.
Should small-scale exploration suit you best, head to nearby Loro Ciuffenna, a delightful medieval town built around a Romanesque bridge spanning the mountain torrent that powered the many water mills producing chestnut flour. Though the mills have ceased to flow, there are charming restaurants, an art museum dedicated to a native son Venturino Venturi and only 1 km out of town in Gropina the impressive Pieve di San Pietro, the oldest (774 A.D.), best preserved Romanesque parish church in Tuscany.
Yet even before hopping into the car to go exploring, the estate’s wooded panorama, reaching as high as the Pratomagno mountains, may well inspire guests to follow paths through their 800 hectares. Or perhaps join a guided hike and wine tasting tour through the nearby village of Castelfranco whose dramatic landscape and colourful eroded shapes, the ‘Balze’, featured in the background of Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Mona Lisa’. Certainly, with stables nearby and bikes easily arranged, life in the slow lane is a wonderful way to discover your surroundings, and with a beautiful house as your base and a restorative pool at hand, a Tuscan holiday will soon find its rightful rhythm.
From € 637 to 921 per day
From € 4,460 to € 5,527 per week
Approximately
$ 5,218 to $ 6,467 in USD
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