Top rivers, lakes and waterfalls for wild swimming in Tuscany
Tuscany has a number of great rivers to swim in, with waterfalls, deep pools and even some that are warmed by thermal springs. Before swimming pools become so ubiquitous we all used to swim in the rivers – and there are some beautiful natural pools dotted along Tuscany's rivers and hidden in its valleys. Exploring the countryside to find these wild swimming spots is a great way to see a Tuscany most visitors will miss.
When to go: Most spots are best from late June through to mid-September. After a hot summer some rivers can run low by late August — the Pavone in particular. Spring floods can make currents dangerous; don't swim alone and check conditions locally.
Around Siena
1. River Merse
near Brenna, Siena
South-west of Siena the river Merse winds through a valley dark with evergreen oaks and dotted with old mills and castles. Head for the tiny hamlet of Brenna and park by a weir.
From here you can walk upriver until you find one of the wide and deep pools to swim in. If it's busy — and it can get busy — then you can drive further up the bumpy dirt track until you see parking spots on the right. From here just go exploring into the woods and you'll find plenty more river swimming pools.
Castle that only God knows
If you'd like to go for a walk from Brenna, there is a castle hidden in these deep folded valleys, known as "Castiglion che Dio sol sa" or The castle that only God knows. Below the castle there is a tributary to the Merse lined with ruins of old mills — in the early 11th and 12th centuries these valleys powered the Sienese industrial revolution.
At the end of a day swimming and hiking you'll be delighted to know that there is a Pizzeria Restaurant in Brenna, The Vecchio Tinaio. Run by Federica and Mauro it's a great place to end the day.
If you're staying in Campalfi you can walk to the river Merse in minutes, and the same is true (though with a longer walk — or a short drive) of guests in Montestigliano. But this great river swimming spot is within easy reach of any of our villas near Siena.
2. Canaloni del Farma
near Monticiano, Siena
A little further south and west from Siena there is another beautiful river swimming spot on the river Farma. The water has carved a passage through the limestone rock, with small waterfalls and deep pools, known locally as the Canaloni del Farma.
The approach is along a path for about 2kms so make sure you take drinking water and walking shoes. Head for Monticiano and drive on toward Torniella. Just before the bridge over the Farma there is a clearing where you can park your car. From here it is a 2km walk to the pools.
If you're staying in any of the historic apartments in the Pieve di Caminino the drive to the Canaloni is under 30 minutes, making it an easy day out.
3. Pozzo Lungo on the Farma
Iesa, Siena
Further along the same river Farma, south of the tiny hamlet of Solaia, there is a wild swimming pool formed at a bend in the river. To get there head for Solaia but park before you get there, at a junction just before a bridge — roughly here. From here head off on foot — you will need decent shoes and drinking water, first SSW then turning SE until you find the river. There are plenty of bathing spots so just explore; this marks the main one: Pozzo Lungo on the Farma.
Look at our villas near Siena or villas in the Maremma to stay near here.
4. Bagni di Petriolo
near Civitella Paganico, Grosseto
A few kilometres downstream from Pozzo Lungo, the river Farma passes over a thermal spring, and the water is noticeably warmed — on a cool spring or autumn day you can swim in water heated by the earth itself. The free pools at Bagni di Petriolo are beside the river, open to everyone.
A word of warning: this is one of Tuscany's worst-kept secrets, and in high summer it can be very crowded. There have also been reports of thefts from cars, so don't leave valuables. Go early, or out of season in April or October when the thermal warmth is most welcome and the crowds are thinnest - it's an entirely different experience.
Around Volterra and the Val di Cecina
5. "Maiden's Rock" on the River Cecina
near Volterra
We used to swim here a lot when I was a child — it's a beautiful pool of water next to a large rock along the river Cecina, where it runs through the park of Berignone. Legend has it that the name Masso delle Fanciulle (Rock of the Maidens) comes from a story of three young girls who, to escape the advances of a gentleman from the neighbouring village, threw themselves into the water from this rock and were drowned.
To reach the pool, drive to this parking spot, close to Pomarance and west of Siena. From here it is a short walk to the pool and its famous rock.
This would be a good place to explore for guests staying in Dan's House, Agriturismo Elvira or anywhere in the Valdelsa.
6. River Pavone
near Montecastelli Pisano
Close to the river Cecina above, the river Pavone winds its way through some very steep cliffs before joining the Cecina. While there is no fixed pool — the bed moves around every winter — if you park near the bridge below Montecastelli Pisano you can walk back under the bridge and turn left (north). Walk until you find somewhere worth swimming — there usually are pools, though beware going late in the season after a hot summer, it might be quite dry. The best place is a pool called "Pozza Verde" with an overhanging rock.
While you're out here, there are several other things worth visiting: the underground Etruscan tomb Buca delle Fate with its radial chambers carved from rock; the dramatic fortress of Rocca Sillana, designed by Giuliano da Sangallo; and the haunting medieval shell of the Church of San Giovanni Battista a Sillano, of which nothing remains but the facade and floor plan.
This is a good place to visit if you're staying in La Ragnana in Radicondoli — the drive is just under 30 minutes.
7. Cascate del Ghiaccione
Between Livorno and Volterra
A hidden waterfall in the wooded valleys between Volterra and Livorno — not easy to reach, but you will be rewarded with a beautiful deep turquoise pool beneath a narrow ribbon of cold water. The location is here: Cascata del Ghiaccione and the best place to park is here: Parking spot.
From the bridge go back up the river, staying on the right hand side — on the left there's an unfriendly dog breeder with fences and signs. Walk and scramble upstream until you find the tall waterfall with a cool pool at its feet.
Stay in Villa di Mezzo to visit this wild swimming spot, or find a villa around Livorno here: Villas around Livorno.
Val d'Elsa
8. Diborrato waterfall on the Elsa River
Near Colle Val d'Elsa
Colle val d'Elsa made its fortunes as an early glass-producing town, powered by the river Elsa forced into narrow mill-races called "Gore". Today the town has made stretches of the river into a beautiful natural park, and walking along the path you can visit the medieval and renaissance engineering works that managed the water.
Park here: SentierElsa Parking Spot — pick a spot and dive in. This is a popular local swimming spot.
Read Marina's notes here: Sweet Lavanda
Maremma and the South
9. Cascate del Mulino, Saturnia
near Manciano, Grosseto
Probably the single most spectacular wild swimming spot in Tuscany — and one of the most famous in Italy. The Cascate del Mulino are a series of naturally terraced thermal pools and waterfalls carved from pale travertine rock, fed by a spring that emerges at a constant 37°C. The water is warm enough to swim in year-round, the colour is an otherworldly blue-green, and entry is completely free.
The downside is that everyone knows about it. In July and August the pools can be packed by mid-morning. The solution is simple: go at dawn, when the steam rises off the water and you may well have it to yourself — one of Tuscany's genuinely magical experiences. October and November are also excellent, when the air is cool and the warmth of the water is most welcome.
Cascate del Mulino on Google Maps — park in the official car park above and walk down.
Guests staying in any of our villas in the Maremma or Grosseto are within easy reach.
10. Lago dell'Accesa
near Massa Marittima, Grosseto
Hidden in the hills above Massa Marittima, the Lago dell'Accesa is one of Tuscany's most beautiful and least-visited lakes. The water is extraordinarily clear — fed by underground springs — and the colour shifts from pale turquoise at the edges to deep blue at the centre. There is a small beach and the lake is shallow enough at the margins for children.
What makes it especially interesting is the Etruscan necropolis on the hillside above — one of the best-preserved Etruscan settlements in Tuscany, where you can walk between the tomb mounds in the shade of the trees after your swim. The combination of archaeological site and swimming lake is rare even by Tuscany's standards.
Lago dell'Accesa on Google Maps. Our villas near Grosseto and in the Maremma are the best base for this spot.
North of Lucca and the Garfagnana
11. Candalla
North of Lucca
North of Lucca, between the Apuan Alps and the Apennines, you will find the jewel of Candalla. Once a set of mills, now you can explore along a walking trail among the ruins and waterfalls through this enchanted valley to find natural pools — great for relaxing, swimming and diving from the top of the waterfall.
Villa Fobbia would be the perfect base for this area north of Lucca.
12. Orrido di Botri
near Bagni di Lucca, Lucca
This is one of Tuscany's most dramatic natural sites - a deep limestone gorge carved by the Lima torrent in the mountains above Bagni di Lucca, where in places the walls close to just a few metres apart and the sky is a thin strip of light far above. The water is ice-cold and crystal clear, running over white rock. Swimming here feels more like an adventure than a day out.
This deep canyon is in the Garfagnana, the mountainous region north of Pisa and Lucca and you can hike the Orrido either by yourself or on a guided tour, either way discovering the unspoiled canyon’s transparent waters, delicate vegetation and rare animals. The canyon is accessible from Ponte a Gaio, but only from mid-June to September, when the water level of the Mariana and Ribellino rivers is low.
The Visitors’ Centre at Ponte a Gaio will provide you with a helmet (obligatory) and sell you a ticket to access the itinerary, which takes about 4 hrs. In the heat of the summer this is a deliciously cool outing, with shorts, a sweatshirt and shoes with good grip the outfit of the day.
At Ponte a Gaio there is a small restaurant ‘Nido dell’Aquila’ where you can eat simple fare for modest prices or places nearby for picnics.
Orrido di Botri on Google Maps. Guests in our villas near Lucca are well placed for a day trip into the mountains here.
Always check local conditions before swimming, never swim alone, and be aware that river levels can change rapidly after rainfall in the hills.
Author: Dan Wrightson
Dan Wrightson grew up in Tuscany, Italy and has been writing about, sketching and exploring Tuscany and Italy since 1983.
18th May 2022 16th Jun 2025